Finnish Train Travel: A Complete Guide for Visitors

Train Travel in Finland: An Insider’s Guide

Imagine gliding through the heart of Finland, surrounded by pristine lakes and forests, as you sip coffee and watch the world go by… That’s the magic of train travel in Finland. Also included in the price sometimes is the stress about catching your connecting train or flight…

With this guide, I hope to equip you with all there is to know about travelling by train in Finland. The good and the uncensored bad.

Note though that this post will focus on the long-distance trains and not on the commuter trains found in the south of Finland!

If you’re looking for other options on how to get around Finland, check out my other article!

Image from VR: totally not edited at all.

The (Only) Train Company 

Route map of the Finnish train network. Source: VR.

If you’re wondering what might be the best trains in Finland, you don’t need to look far! You see, Finland loves monopolies (just ask us about Alko!) and the transport industry is no different. The only train company operating in Finland is VR, short for Railways of the State (although most Finnish people will have their own take on what the letters stand for – and usually nothing very flattering). 

I should also mention that this is why none of the links in this post are affiliate links – they simply don’t need to compete with anyone.

The white-and-green trains will take you pretty much anywhere in Finland, as long as you’re travelling north to south or south to north… and not too north. Travelling “sideways” ie. across the country is a pain in the ass especially in the centre and north of the country, so you’re better off opting for a bus most of the time.

As much as the Finns (myself included) like to make fun of VR, it is actually a very good option if you’re looking to travel between major cities in the southern and central Finland, and to cities like Oulu and Rovaniemi in the north or Kajaani and Joensuu in the east. 

The trains are comfortable, quiet (like the people), and pleasant to travel in. 

Types of Trains in Finland 🚆

You have options for the type of train you can take: most of the long-distance trains are InterCitys (IC) that will stop at the bigger stations, but sometimes will speed past the smallest ones.  The fastest (and the least reliable in the winter) are Pendolinos (S), which tend not to stop on so many stations.

You also have the night trains with special sleeper cabins, which I have never been in, because I’m cheap and the seats in the normal cabins are rather comfy too (the comfy rating goes backwards: the oldest trains will have the most comfortable, wide and sink-yourself-in seats (although there aren’t too many of these in operation anymore these days), ICs are okay and Pendolinos are the least sleep-able.)

If you want the comfort of a bed, VR has collected their tips for travelling in one of the sleeper cars here. Maybe some day I will also splash out and decide to travel in style 😂 Rest assured I will come and write about my experiences here then.

“Kiskobussit” (official translation is rail cars, but I prefer the more direct translation of rail buses, as it conveys the idea better) are smaller trains serving more rural areas, and across the country (remember when I told you in the beginning that most routes run up and down the country?). These trains are diesel-powered and run along routes that are not electrified. 

For rail cars there will usually only be a couple of trains per day. You can’t book seats, and sometimes when the train gets fully booked, they will add buses to meet the demand, so don’t be surprised if you’re greeted with one of them instead. These trains are more basic, with limited services compared to the InterCity and Pendolino trains, so most of what I’ve listed below won’t apply. But hey, at least there’s wi-fi!

Booking Train Tickets in Finland

For tickets, all the train stations will have ticket machines (because we don’t like to hire people to do the jobs that machines can do, unlike in Latvia, for example!) and the major ones like Päärautatieasema and Pasila in Helsinki might even have desks manned by actual people (although I’m not too sure about this, need to go check this some day).

Just make sure you buy your ticket as far in advance as you can, as the prices will go up depending on the demand and the closer you get to the date you want to travel on.

If you have a credit/debit card and an internet connection, I recommend using the website at https://www.vr.fi/en. There’s also an app called “VR Matkalla”, which you need to register for but will keep you updated if there are on the inevitable delays. It will also show you where you are on the map, in case you want to make sure you don’t want to miss your stop (there’s also a handy map on their website). More on how to get off at the right stop later.

For information about discounts on train tickets (and other public transport in Finland), check out my comprehensive guide to getting around Finland.

Seat Selection and Classes

When buying tickets, you have the option to choose your seat for Pendolino, IC and night trains. Selecting a seat in advance doesn’t cost you extra.

From what I’ve seen, I think the app and the machines will automatically assign you a window seat, if one is available, and only when those are full, will it start assigning aisle seats – you’d need to be crazy in Finland to select to sit next to someone when there are empty seats available!

Check out Finnish Nightmares for more explanations on why we are like this.

You can even go as far as booking the seat next to you, just so that you can avoid people – what a lovely people we are 🙄 Regular seats (sometimes called “Eko class”) are always included in the price.

Screenshot showing how the VR seats are automatically assigned so that the window seats get filled first.
A love letter from whoever designed the booking system: you can avoid people for as long as possible.

In addition to the regular seats, you have these options:

  • Ekstra class: These seats offer a quieter environment and include complimentary tea, coffee, and water. ☕However, you’ll need to pay a premium for these perks, with prices ranging from approximately €10 to €25 extra, depending on the route and time of year.
  • Seating above the restaurant: These seats provide more space and are located in the carriage where alcohol consumption on your seat is allowed. However, like Ekstra class, you’ll need to pay a premium for these seats.
  • Smaller cabins/compartments: You can book an entire compartment for your private use, which is a great option if you’re travelling with family or in a group (or even just on your own, if you have the money). However, keep in mind that this option also comes with a premium price tag.
  • Pet seats: These are regular seats that are included in the price if you’re travelling without pets but don’t mind (or maybe even enjoy?) being surrounded by furry friends. If you’re bringing your own pet, there’s a small additional fee.
  • Seats in the kids’ car: These seats are located in a dedicated carriage with a play area for children, facilities for changing diapers, and more space for buggies. These seats are included in the regular ticket price. You can select these seats even when travelling without kids, but then you don’t get to complain about the noise.

VR likes to advertise Ekstra class and the compartments as worker friendly, making it sometimes sound necessary to book those seats to be able to work. Do not be fooled by the advertising, though – all the seats in the regular cars will also have sockets for your electronics, tables or foldable trays and wi-fi (shitty, but it’s there). 

🛄 Top tip: check the train seating map (like the one above) to see where the luggage storages are. I like to pick my seat somewhere close by to not have to stay too far away. The overhead shelves are not too bad either, but I like to leave my bigger luggage in the lockers. Sometimes you will need a couple of coins to operate the locks, but sometimes they are for free. You will get your money back anyway, once you open the locker.

Now that you know about the different seat options, let’s explore the amenities and services available on VR trains.

Amenities and Services on VR Trains

All of the long-distance trains will have restaurant cars (or at least food trolleys). These are actually quite comfortable and not too expensive for Finland. You will obviously pay a bit extra, but for example large coffee is a reasonably priced 3,20 € at the time of writing. You can pay by cash or card. There’s a selection of full meals, sandwiches, snacks, and breakfast things. You can enjoy the food in the restaurant car, or take it back to your seat (apart from alcoholic drinks!).

The trains are quite safe, and I usually leave my luggage at my seat when I go buy coffee or go to the toilet, but do so at your own risk!

🚾 Toilets are quite nice, and located in every car. If I were given the option where bus and train transport cost the same, I would choose the train just for the more convenient toilets!

They say the wi-fi works, but quite often it hasn’t for me, at least not fast enough to stream shows. If you want to get work done, it’s best to find some offline work, as the trains go through areas with some really poor network connections (Finland is the country of forests, after all). Or at least download whatever you’re bingeing on Netflix at the moment!

There’s even a map of wi-fi coverage, so you can be prepared. Source: https://www.vr.fi/en/wifi.

Staying on Track (Quite Literally!)

The one thing I stress about the most when travelling on public transport abroad is knowing when to get off. I hate it when I’m on a local bus and have to look like a tourist with my Google Maps open and tracking my journey so I don’t miss my stop. On Finnish trains you can blend in, because announcements on VR trains are made in three languages: Finnish, Swedish, and English

In addition to the announcements, there are usually digital displays in each carriage that show the current station, upcoming stops, and sometimes even estimated arrival times. However, be warned: these displays can be a bit temperamental and might not always be working, or get stuck on displaying the same information for hours. So, if you’re prone to train-induced naps, it’s always a good idea to set an alarm or keep an ear out for those announcements, just in case!

Or you can always follow your journey on the VR app or, you guessed it, Google Maps 😀

VR: On Time… Eventually

The reason Finns like to make fun of VR is that it’s notorious for being late. Nothing compared to what I’ve heard about German trains, though! The few times my train has been really late, there has been good communication from the staff (including announcements in English) and they’ve even reminded us to go on their website and get compensation for the delay. 

You can get money back if your train has been delayed by more than an hour: read the details on the official website here. They are not like Ryanair in this respect or try to make it too hard for you to apply for the compensation. In addition to the compensation, VR will also make sure you get to your destination: I once got a taxi ride from Kouvola to Kotka (worth over 100 €) due to my first train being delayed because someone decided to kill themselves by jumping in front of it (morbid, but it happens…). Usually the train will be able to catch up for lost time, so you won’t be too late.

Still, I would NEVER take the last possible train to catch my flight. Guaranteed, there will be snow in June, trees will fall on the tracks, or someone will jump in front of the train. Only one of them hasn’t happened to me, can you guess which one?

So, now that you’re prepared for the occasional delay, here is the collection of my essential tips to make your Finnish train journey as smooth and enjoyable as possible:

Essential Tips for Train Travel in Finland

  1. Book tickets in advance: Prices tend to increase closer to the departure date, especially for popular routes and times.
  2. Be prepared for delays: Finnish trains can sometimes be delayed, so be patient and check for updates on the VR app or website.
  3. Consider Ekstra class or compartments for added comfort: If you need a quieter environment or more space, consider upgrading to Ekstra class or booking a private compartment.
  4. Download entertainment for offline use: Wi-fi can be unreliable on some routes, so download movies, music, or books to keep yourself entertained.
  5. Don’t take the last train for your flight: Delays can happen, so allow ample time for your journey to the airport.
  6. Enjoy the restaurant car: Take advantage of the onboard restaurant car for meals, snacks, and drinks.

Despite its quirks and occasional delays (and the occasional suicidal moose – just kidding!), train travel in Finland is a truly unique experience. When you travel Finland by train, it gives you a chance to slow down, appreciate the scenery (green, green, green or white, white, white, depending on the season), and maybe even strike up a conversation with a fellow passenger (if you’re feeling brave and they look friendly).

Honestly, I could just fill this blog post with the memes from Finnish Nightmares and call it a day.

So, pack your snacks, download your podcasts, and get ready to embark on a Finnish train adventure!